Reunion Island

Bonjour Reunion Island. After previous cancellations in 2020, this would be second time lucky. We had originally booked Reunion Island, as part of a RTW trip in 2019, but some 2020 plans changed everything. 

Le Voyage: Planning the journey to Reunion Island. 

There would be lots of sightseeing in Reunion Island. We were excited to delve into brand new sensations of this rather European tropical isle.

Born over 3 million years ago from volcanic activity, we couldn’t wait to discover the modern day hiking trails, to capture the magnificent views of the lagoons, or rushing waterfalls, and stunning beaches! 

London hotel

We decided to spend a night in London first at the Premier Inn, Gatwick North Terminal. A hop on the eve of the giant step in order to ease the stress of potential delays etc.

It worked a treat, and did what it said on the tin, as the journey went as anticipated. The hotel was cheap, clean and conveniently only a few minutes walk to our launch pad in the airport’s north terminal.

We paid £103 for a Premier plus room as we needed a fridge to store the, home cooked, food we brought to cover the 36hr journey time. 

Flight to Reunion Island via Mauritius. 

Our Air Mauritius flight, MK 53, would depart from Gatwick to Mauritius. From here, we would get a connecting flight straight to Reunion Island.

Our flights cost £2280, London – Mauritius -Reunion – Mauritius – London, including paying for our seats on the two long haul legs. Added to that, return flights Belfast to Gatwick priced in at £206. 

On arrival in Mauritius they even cancelled our connecting flight to Reunion. Luckily Astral airlines stepped in to take us!

Travel light

We didn’t have any hold luggage. I have to admit, I’m (Miko) the packing queen extraordinaire! Indeed, we refuse to pay ridiculous fees. So one standard cabin baggage and two small hand luggage would suffice. Or so I thought until at last minute we found out Air Mauritius only allowed 1 small carry on bag each up to 7kg.

Turning a negative into a positive.

Air Mauritius are a bunch of cowboys that really don’t care much for their customers. At online check in, we discovered that the airline had changed our seats from those which we had paid for. There was no option to change and they were trying to charge us further for the  privilege. 

After phone calls on the Friday evening and Saturday morning, it became evident they would do nothing to change things. I (Knox) made my way to the terminal as check in opened there on the Saturday afternoon. Still no change. They offered various seats all in the middle of the aircraft. We stuck with what they had given, in our preferred back of the plane area, but encouraged Vel to allow us all our bags on board. They also checked us in without the need to queue. Small positives but a big help.

On board

As noted above, we were highly organized with our food. Plane dinners are never good, so we brought our homemade meals on board. You could sense the envious stares of other passengers as we dished out our evening meal of Lasagne, coleslaw, and homemade wheaten bread. 

This had complimented our fresh fruit breakfast at the hotel and a late lunch of veggie burger bites and spiced chickpeas. 

During the rest of the flight journeys, we had hand tossed pizza that was oven fresh on the Friday prior to travel. Cooking these up in our own kitchen before travelling would, not only save us a fortune, but was also well above the culinary standard one would receive along the way.

Car hire in reunion Island. 

It was important for us to have a car. Indeed, for our self sufficient nature, we required the freedom and independence to get around Reunion Island.

We hired from Budget car hire, chosen for price but also due to its reasonable worldwide reputation, in Reunion. It was £188 for 5 days. Again, as noted in our piece on tips; Car Rental – an experience journey, we travel with our own car excess insurance so we don’t require to pay over the odds for the rental company’s daily total insurance charge that was €19 this time. 

Inspection 

The little i10 car, on inspection, wasn’t great. It was filthy on the outside and not much better inside. This was a joke. At the desk, the rental agent stated that the car must be clean inside but not to worry about outside! 

When questioned, with photographic evidence, they told us there was a water shortage. I (Knox) asked how that affected the big footprints on the passenger side footwell? She had little answer. Make sure you’re a happy snapper at the time of collection. They are date stamped and offer plenty of evidence. 

Usually, at pick up, one gets given a damage report with possibly a few marks noted. The report on this car was like a teacher gone mad with red inked X’s. 

Budget at Reunion Island info

Tip: Budget doesn’t state anywhere on its site that you need to get a shuttle to their location 10 minutes drive from the airport. It was quite confusing at first as many other car hire companies are at the airport car hire point but them.

We had to ask at Avis, a sister company, desk to get directed to the bus stop that Budget pick up behind. No signs no info and we weren’t the only confused customers. 

We figure, there is always a reason to be cheaper than others!

On route

We drove to our destination passing huge ravines and lush greenery. We knew rain would play a big part in the vibrant landscape but hoped it would stay dry over our trip here.

Reunion island is that of the Mascarene Islands, which is a French overseas départment and overseas région. It is located in the western Indian Ocean.

Island life

The language is French or  Réunion Creole. The scenery reminded us, though, of the natural landscape of Costa Rica, rather than France. This tropical corner of Europe may somewhat be missing the little cafes or boutique. However, there were small centres of buzz and activity like Saint Pierre, close to our abode. Indeed ,the focus here was on natural attractions with a smattering of non fancy shops and plenty of shack restaurants. Happily, we were in luck that they still had bountiful boulangeries, with buttery croissants, and devine pastries tasting delicious! We could never eat another non French crossaint again!

Reunion currency

Amazingly all this way, the currency was Euros.

Accommodation 

We opted for an Airbnb, called Riverview, located in the Saint-Pierre area. It was approximately just over an hour drive from the airport.

We were lucky to get an early check in at 1.30pm. Mercifully, even though exhausted, our eyes remained open during the drive. A quick look at the pier and lighthouse passed the hour before we were able to turn up.  After a clean up, we conked out until dinner, which was a delicious takeaway pizza.

The Airbnb was just like the pictures, maybe even better. The best part was the outdoor space filled with lush greenery and the river view, hence the name. The sunset vistas were magnificent. Unfortunately the mosquitoes and biting ants detracted from how long we were able to relax in it!

What to do?

You will find a wide range of activities to immerse yourself in on the island. Here were our highlights.

The landscape of Reunion Island 

Our first impression of Reunion Island was of a fertile and abundant land set in an ancient and prehistoric landscape. The mountainous scenery, with vast Ravines, gave the imagination of a huge giant wielding an axe into the rockface at different points. Maybe the giant was a cousin of Cu’ Chulainn and his causeway exploits. 

Plage de l’Ermitage

You will find this beach,  located in Saint Gilles Les Bains. Parking is easy if you get there early and is right behind the beach. 

Walking through the trees, brought us to the white sandy stretch, scattered with coral debris, with stunning aqua waters. Perfect for a wee snorkel. The beach is quite narrow but long enough to find a quiet spot to lounge your sarong on the marshmallow sands.

Even though it was only 9am the beach was already beginning to fill up. It seems people like to get up early here. I guess that’s for the lack of nightlife lol. Although, a few locals shading under the trees were popping open some bottles, and creating a reggae vibe, as we left around 10.30am. It brought a smile to our faces reminding us of Mexico.

After our trekking the past few days, it was bliss to take time out to soak up the rays.

Plage de Boucan Canot

The majority claim this is the most beautiful beach in Reunion. Lined with palms and casuarina trees and framed with basalt rocks and cliffs, you’ll see why. 

There is easy parking and the beach was quieter at the rock face, away from the beach front hotel. (Also great to see some awakened people in Reunion 😉).

Also, the lack of sunbeds and umbrellas taking over the natural sands, like in many tourist spots, was refreshing. 

 

A 610m shark net, protects a large bathing area, which was installed off the beach in December 2015. This is the only area for safe swimming.

Watch out for those sharks!

Port de Saint-Gilles – port

The pretty marina sits on the west coast of Réunion island, attracting scuba divers and sunbathers alike.

You can lounge with your favourite refreshment and watch the world go by. 

It’s a quaint, maybe even a well heeled area, with a handful eating and drinking establishments mingling with the dive shops and sunwear stores.

Parking is very difficult even when early and it’s the luck of the draw if you can find a spot.

 

Devils tip

The Devil’s tip, at Saint Pierre, is another remnant of the volcanic history in Reunion Island. The basalt rock stretches out like a ghostly, Halloween, arm to touch the power of the Indian Ocean. 

Plage du Tremblet

Talking about the volcanic nature of Reunion Island, here’s something a bit more recent. This is known as the world’s newest beach!

The black sand beach is overlooked by a hardened lava flow, which was created from a volcanic eruption in 2007.

You can park up on the roadside. There is an easy  walk down amongst a shady tree path for 15 minutes. The next part is a bit more adventurous, bringing you through a narrow rocky, step down, trail for the next 10 minutes or so. We managed it in flip flops no worries. The lush greenery attracts lots of mosquito, so bring repellent!

Once down you will see on the left the black sand beach glinting with a shipwreck on it.

Feel more of the volcanic energy by taking an excursion into lava tunnels. Expert guides are available.

The lava road.

On past the beach entrance, the road takes one to the place that the lava followed the chicken. Why did the lava cross the  road? Cause it was on a hot streak! Ta boom tish!

It is pretty awesome, the lands of our world just amaze us. We are small and run for safety when our earth decides to party!

Piton_de_la_Fournaise 

And now for the creator, Reunion Island’s raison d’être, Le Volcan! The volcanic mountain of Piton de la Fournaise is a typical basaltic shield volcano, with an iconic cone. It is said to be one of the world’s most active volcanoes.

How long does it take to climb?

On average approximately, it takes 6 hours each way to pay homage to Reunion Island’s god. Some extremists, poles and all, can bound across the trail. Others can go their own pace. 

The early bird may not see in the dark.

We made an early start as we wanted to see the sunrise at the summit. Our hour and 15 minute drive meant we revved the engine at 2.15am. We’ve never got up so early for a trek before, all new to us! Lol

The roads were deathly quiet as we drive the winding road.

When we arrived there were several other cars in the car park already. It is a free activity and the parking is also free.

The hike took us 6.45 minutes due to me (Knox) having us follow another trail of ‘white paint markings’, going anticlockwise around the mound. It was very difficult, though, to see as it was pitch black and we only had our phone torches. Most others were better equipped with head torches but that didn’t deter us.

After quite a trek, which was bringing us westward of the crater, we decided to turn back. There was a little Volcanic eruption from myself (Miko) as losing 45 minutes on an already moderate to high intensity trek was so frustrating. 

Back on track

Turning back was the right decision though, and as the sunrise filled the eastern horizon, it was much easier to navigate across the moonscape. This enabled us to cut across the lava field rather than retrace all our steps.

We definitely made better headway by skipping the guided white marks on the rocks for a bit and trusting our instincts.

On the up

The trail, especially there for inexperienced climbers, wound a circuitous route rather than a more extreme straight up path. Although every time we thought we got closer to the top, we’d have to go around a bit further. You had to deal with the rocks that were sharp, uneven, and obstructive as well as the loose stones that threatened to give way to your footing at a height of 2,600 metres. The climb was precarious at times. 

Take me to the top of reunion Island 

The top came eventually though and it was invigorating to reach it, with a sense of achievement.

It was like being in the clouds, on top of the world. 

We were lucky to have avoided the crowds by getting up so early. So we sat and had a bite for 10 minutes before heading for our descent.

Back down to earth

As we made our way down, the hordes of hikers were making their way towards us. We were thankful we made the effort to rise early, especially as the sun started to get out.

Unfortunately we had a last mountain to climb. The dreaded steep steps, approximately 600, back to the car park. While it was a killer, the position afforded some great views of what we had just accomplished.

Sitting in the little hire car afterwards felt like luxury lol

Tips on volcano trekking in Reunion Island.

Believe it or not, we did the hike in our Vans and Converse. They were fine. Many people we saw were in the full get up, with hiking boots and walking poles. I did like their head lamps though. That would have come in very handy in the night lol

It is advisable to bring water and a bite to eat, due to the lengthy trek. There is nowhere open for essentials so early in the morning. However there was a shop we noticed when we came down. The water was very expensive at 3 euro per litre, although it was the best water ever quenching our thirst finally.

Also, get their early. It’s worth it! The car park as we were leaving was jam packed!

Vanilla!

There are several plantations for the beautiful scent of vanilla in Reunion Island. It’s best to book a tour at least a day in advance. Instead of a tour, and because of time constraints, we stopped on by a little Vanilla seller down on the south west coast to buy some vanilla pods instead.

Even though vanilla is native to Mexico, it can also grown in abundance in the Reunion Island due to the tropical weather. The smell is that of cakes and holidays. I love it! 

The making of vanilla starts with pollinating the flower: this is done by hand because the only bee capable of carrying out the task lives exclusively in Mexico. When the pod appears, it is picked, soaked in hot water, then left to dry in the sun for several months. This lengthy process is why vanilla is the second most expensive spice in the world after saffron.

Grand Galet Waterfall 

Definitely a favourite spot in Reunion, in the Saint Joseph area, the waterfall attracts locals and tourists alike. It was jam packed when we arrived in the afternoon. 

It took us approximately an hour to get here from Saint Pierre. Once off the main highway, the roads were narrow, steep and winding on the way up the mountain. 

The waterfall invites a refreshing dip on a hot humid day as well as things a tad more manic. Indeed, you will find zip wiring adventurers hurtling towards a splashing finish as they add to the crescendo of the falls. Past the main falls, the river continues to descend into smaller pools, populated by bathers, that then flow to another lesser cascade.

If driving, go early as the car park is small, with only about 20 spots, although people do park along side the road. And an early arrival means beating the crowds. As we arrived at our leisure for this sight, meant it was too crowded for our liking.

Cap Noir and Mafate.

We got up at the crack of dawn again, and left at 6am to make the journey to Cap Noir. And, like most of the times before traffic was congested already. As stated previously, people rise early here so expect frustrating traffic jams.

The journey took us 2 hours, instead of an expected 1hr 15, due to the stop go traffic.

Volcanic Reunion Island 

Born out of the ancient collapse of a shield volcano, Mafate is the rugged caldera that is mightily impressive. 

An easy 15 minutes walk from the car park brings you to the Cap Noir trail into the Mafate Valley.  

Unfortunately, when we got there, the path was closed because of construction. Luckily, there was another route, taking the climb to Roche Verre Boutielle.  

On yer hike!

Yes, we had a longer hike ahead. However, wow. 

It was a rocky climb. As well as steep steps, there are a couple of small ladders and ropes.

The path is easy to moderate depending on your fitness level.

Wildlife watches

It does build up a sweat and gets that heart pumping. Coming down was way easier. Even, the birds watched us intently. This little Tec Tec allowed us to come so close without flinching. 

Just be careful of your footing. It took us about 50 minutes all in all. There were several hikers around, but definitely not a busy path when we arrived. 

Watch out for the massive spiders! This red legged, golden orb weaver was just chilling. 

Astounding views

The climb was well worth it. Showcasing breathtaking vistas of striking jagged, forest-clad mountains.

We were delighted to have another feather in our cap.  

Dodo 

The island offers a wide variety of local specialities, such as rum, beers, wines, mineral water and lemonade. The most well known label would be Dodo beer!

The bourbon beer is brewed locally. Its symbol is a dodo, a large turkey-like bird that once inhabited the islands of the Indian Ocean and is now sadly extinct. The beer even comes in lychee flavour. A tropical fruit which has a floral, sweet like taste. The lychee fruit is native to China, but is also grown in Florida and Hawaii.

La saga do rhum/  rum museum

Lighthouse 

The lighthouse, if honest, wasn’t very impressive. A pencil like structure in the distance, alongside one of Saint Pierre’s small beaches. There’s a few fish restaurants that face out onto the Indian Ocean.

Marche Forain de Saint Paul 

We finished off our Reunion trip, before the airport, at Saint Paul’s Market and glad we made the early start to make the most of it.

The market begins on every Friday and Saturdays from 6am. Parking isn’t easy, and like any attraction in Reunion, it’s the luck of the draw how one squeezes in.

The market sits along side a black sand beach and a board walk, with various sculptures showcased.

There was also a sculpture in progress as we passed.

It would be interesting so see the finished piece.

Reunion Island produce

It’s one of the best colourful markets we have seen around the world, bar ones in beautiful India. There were still some vibrant Indian spices here too due to the big Indian community. 

There is a wide range of goods, from handmade crafts, clothes, soaps and food etc.

We couldn’t resist buying some gorgeous natural homemade soaps and more vanilla pods!

Sampling the delights

The food stalls are enticing with Indian snacks such as Samosas and Pakoras.

We just had to try the crepe stand, Le Ti’ Crepier for breakfast. Made right infront of us it they were delicious. Even reminded me of my mum’s (Miko) pancakes, which  brought me right back to the comforts of childhood.

We also couldn’t resist purchasing some homemade caramel sauce.

 

They even had live music which added to the bustling, yet relaxed atmosphere.

Eating & Drinking 

Reunion island is so spread out and restaurants/ bars near our location were few. Indeed, you would need to drive 20 minutes from our River View pad to lively Saint Pierre, on Boulevard Hubert Delisle. 

We stopped into a couple on little places before heading ‘home’ (home is where I lay my hat).

A lot of smoking inside is still prevalent and they don’t seem to follow the rules that the rest of Europe do. We changed table to retreat quickly from the wafting, stinking, cigar smoke. Other than that the atmosphere was extremely welcoming, with the server even speaking to us in English due to our dreadful French!

Eating in

Even though our Airbnb didn’t have a stove, we managed to whip up some fresh salads with either a baguette, tartlet, or pastry from the boulangerie. 

French know how to do breads best! No synthetic UK supermarket rubbish here!

It was nice to see that le fruit et legumes store had mostly local produce, actually grown on this fertile land.

On our first night we ordered a pizza from La Diva. It was fresh and tasty. There are a few other small pizza haunts in the area. We had to drive to to collect our pizza but some do delivery.

Would we recommend Reunion Island?

Absolutely! Reunion islands is a little different from your usual trips. Full of adventure, and a healthy outdoor lifestyle. It’s mostly French tourists, and when talking to locals they were amazed two Irish people had heard of Reunion Island! This place should be on everyone’s bucket list!

If you like things off the beaten track, you may like to check out our other around the world adventures:

Holbox

Taganga

Isla mujures

Minca