Shimla – A trip to the North
The capital of Himachal Pradesh. Shimla is a Himalayan hill station renowned for its colonial architecture, cooler climate, and scenic beauty. Sitting in the foothills of the Himalayas, It was a dream of ours to visit parts of North India. Fulfilling that dream, bringing it to fruition and seeing Shimla, was enriching.
How we got to Shimla.
No flights from Rishikesh! Therefore, the popular way was to hire a cab driver for 7/ 8 hour stint. We paid 8000 INR. While this was expensive, and we know we were ripped off, it was that or get on a bus. Indeed, a bus would have led to a more uncomfortable and arduous journey, possibly up to 11 hours plus waiting around! Some of the winding hill roads are scary enough in a car never mind a bus.
We made our way to the cab stand at 6am, thinking we would hop into the car and go. But nope, the Rana Travel guy ushered us onto separate scooters, luggage and all, as they drove us 15 minutes to the waiting taxi driver. What an early morning adventure lol
Our driver was sensible in how he approached the journey. That, in India, is the exception rather than the rule 😁.
As we climbed up into the mountains, the driver stopped in a quaint mountain village, Naina Tikker. We had prepared for the journey, with crisps, nuts, dried fruits, and some of “The Whole Truth” Cacao bars. However, as a lover of Samosas, I (Knox) spied some at the canteen, Krishna Dhaba and Sweets. The flavour, freshness and texture was right up there with the best I’ve ever tasted.
8 hours later, we arrived.
Accommodation
We chose Namah Retreat By PerfectStayz because the pictures looked beautiful and aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
It was outside the hustle and bustle, with a lovely, forested, mountain vista. Additionally, we discovered a view of a military base, their helicopter pad, and tiny golf course. On some early mornings, you could hear them training with loud cadences reverberating up the natural mountain side amphitheatre.
Unfortunately, on closer inspection of the room, the bedding was dirty as were the towels. Some pieces of furniture in the room were also missing. Basically the ‘professional’ online photos did not match reality.
Were the rooms ever like the pictures? Briefly, possibly. Now, they are very tatty. The young lads who run it have no sense how to upkeep it. However, the owner needs to take responsibility.
The facilities online advertised were also non existent, such as breakfast and ironing facilities. We had to beg for an iron, which they had to borrow, before they instructed us to hand it back within 20 minutes.
The iron, itself, was like an antique. It was like a heavy dumbell from a gym and give electric shocks. Hilarious if it wasn’t so dangerous.
All in all, after getting clean sheets and towels, the room wasn’t so bad that we left. We enjoyed the balcony, with our sunny afternoons, and the beautiful sunsets.
Cost: 3 nights 11,729 INR (approx £30 per night)
Climate
It was a mere 27 degrees when we arrived. That would be a proper heatwave, with ‘taps aff‘, in Northern Ireland lol. However, we were so used to 40+ degree heat in Mumbai, that both of us got a wee sniffle. Temperatures at night went down to 20. We were amazed how our body got used to the extreme heat in Mumbai lol.
Moped hire
If you want to get to see all the places independently, hiring a moped/scooter, or scooty as they call them here, is essential. We hired one from Viaggio Motoventure, which cost 600 INR. This was the worst one of the trip.
Pressing the left brake, the rear one, often gave one a small electric shock. The bike had more dents and scratches on it, was missing a passenger foot rest, and had seen better days. However, they delivered to the accomodation, gave us freedom to roam, and it did the job. Furthermore, it was the only one that responded to our requests. Going down steep hills is nerve racking.
What to see?
We planned to explore for 3 days. It was definitely a perfect amount of time to see everything, plus, to do some washing (Oh, how we missed the Marriott in Mumbai for this lol) and chill time.
Mall Road, Shimla.
In the heart of the city, Ridge & Mall Road has a lot of sightseeing attractions cropped together.
Perfect for shopping local Himalayan handcraft items, restaurants, cafes, breweries, viewing the Scandal Point, Christ Church and much more. It is bustling at night.
They even had clothing shops, such as Levis, Jack and Jones, and Gap!
As Mall road is pedestrian only, you have to get a lift, or 2, to go up to all the action. This costs 20 rupees one way. Unfortunately, queues can be lengthy depending on the time of day.
Not interested in shopping? All good, just dander and enjoy the monkeys having fun.
The Ridge
The Ridge has panoramic views. Sitting above Mall Road, it’s a real gathering place. Indeed, there is a great hum of activity and not all of it human. There are some lovely canines to play with.
And of course, there are the monkeys. Certainly, one has to remember that they are wild animals and show a little respect.
One of the activities was horse riding.
We found it cruel that 2 people, (some heavy in weight) were allowed on at one time. You could see some horses were plainly struggling.
There were also statues in the Ridge of well known Indian figures such as Gandi.
Christ Church also sat on the Ridge.
Christ Church
A prominent, historic landmark with stained glass windows. Built by the British to serve their growing Anglican community in the summer capital. Christ Church is also in the Ridge area which was convenient.
The neo-Gothic structure was designed by Colonel J. T. Boileau, with its cornerstone laid on September 9, 1844, and consecrated on January 10, 1857.
We found the church calming and tranquil and the other visitors respected the quiet atmosphere.
There were even some friendly dogs who approached for a play.
Jakhoo Temple
Dedicated to Hanuman, this temple is on the highest peak, offering panoramic views across the Shimla area.
As usual, the traffic at the site was jammed.
Ringing the bell announces your arrival and creates the vibration for the sacred sound of OM 🕉️
Thousands go everyday.
Lord Hanuman stands at 108 feet tall. Very impressive, the multitude of devotees touch his big toe and say a prayer.
Of course, for the monkey god, Hanuman’s troops are all around, sending a mix of joy and interpretation through the throng of devotees. They are wild animals after all.
Lakkar Bazaar, Shimla.
Immerse yourself in the hustle and bustle to explore the stalls and shops, famous for handcrafted wooden souvenirs, walking sticks, Pashmina shawls. If you get hungry you can stop for food like chhole bhature and the popular momos.
Gorton Castle
The castle is now used as a government building but tourists can snap a pic from outside. It is a1904 Neo-Gothic heritage monument. The grey stone walls ate quite understated and bland. However some say it looks better from above, especially with the red roof against the snow.
Viceregal Lodge & Botanical Gardens
A stunning, colonial-era building that formerly housed the British Viceroy.
The botanical gardens, surrounding the building, were equally beautiful.
It was very pleasant strolling the surroundings despite it being busy. Everyone was just taking in the lovely nature, colourful flowers, and the exquisite property. Additionally, the weather, while warm, is pleasant and a far cry from the oppressive heat of Mumbai.
Cost
As per usual with Indian government sites, foreigners are charged more. We paid 100 rupees each, for the lawns and gardens only. while Indians are charged 60 rupees for the same.
It’s when you get to the guided tours, which were sold out for a few hours, that you see the real difference. Indians get in for 200 INR while foreigners are charged 1000 INR. Quite a hike.
Saying that, it was one place we really enjoyed, so found it worth it.
Chadwick Falls, Shimla
A scenic 86-meter waterfall, best seen after the monsoon.
We were out of luck for water cascading down a rock face but in luck for delightfully sunny weather 🌞.
However, despite it being a trickle we enjoyed the tranquility and the dander.
The walk to the falls was about 15 minutes. Cost for us ‘foreigners’ 100 rupees each.
Chadwick House Museum
Shimla’s Chadwick House, the former residence of the Maharaja of Kapurthala, has been converted into a museum that showcases a collection of rare artefacts, including a 1907 table and chair used by scientist CV Raman.
Its also famously known for, Mahatma Gandhi staying at it, when visiting during the 1946 Cabinet Mission meeting with the British.
The area is up in the hills and very peaceful with some gorgeous vistas.
Take the Kalka-Shimla toy train for scenic views
The train snakes it’s way up the mountain, through tunnels, and calls into plenty of quaint stations. Getting a ticket straight from the IRCTC (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation) proved difficult for the dates we were due to be in Shimla. It was summer and they get bought up by the tour operators quickly.
We decided to check out a couple of stations.
Summer Hill station
The picturesque station at Summer Hill station was sleepy in the midday sun when we arrived. A few sat under the shade while the station master hid in his office.
It had an old worldly ambience and you could imagine decades back how it must have been. At winter, when its snowing, it must make for a stunning picture.
Shimla station
A novelty is to watch the train choo choo into the station or leaving. Or more like chugging puffs of black diesel smoke in the air. Still, the thought of showing knox’s train buff dad the famous mountain train was a big driver.
Indeed, it would have been a dereliction of duty if we didn’t show this narrow gauge treat and talk about locamotive turntables et al 😁!
As the main destination of the line, Shimla had more bustle about it without being mad busy. The magnificent mountain views creates a dramatic setting for this railway delight.
Summer Hill vistas
Approx 5 km west of the famous Shimla Ridge, it is part of the seven-hill cluster known for its quiet cedar and pine forests, making it an ideal escape from the bustling crowds of Mall Road.
It was actually directly opposite our accomodation. Additionally, it included where Chadwick Falls was.
Eating and drinking in Shimla
There are a many eateries in Shimla, but we preferred one place. Firstly we had a drink in a rival Brewery.
Shimla Brewing Company
Not to be confused with the below, Shimla Brewing Company is a competitor. The beer was good in the place though and they had amazing views from their balcony with a relaxing wooden swing seat.
The Brew Estate – pub and local Brewery, Shimla
We do love a good craft brewing, and Shimla has quite a few options. However, we really got to like this place and ate in, or from, it 3 times.
As well as the veggie burgers, the Asian green bean salad was especially delicious as was the Veg Manchurian .
Furthermore, the home brew IPA, lager and cider tasted great. We were impressed when they brought a free taster tray down first before making our choices.
Both breweries had windows into their brewing process to validate that the magic happens on site.
The Brew Estate also had an open kitchen to highlight their good standards.
On the middle day, after a long day sightseeing, we also got a takeaway pizza.
All in all, the food and drinks were very tasty. Moreover, our continuing good gut health indicated positive hygiene standards.
Entrance is on the street above Mall Road, and up a stairway entry.
Stopping off at the Rocky Knob
While we didn’t have a bite at this road side cafe, the innuendo caused a chuckle. The views are just fantastic but that can be said across Shimla and the local district.
The monkeys!
We can’t forget to mention the cheeky monkeys! Seen throughout our North India tour, they are absolutely everywhere getting up to mischief!
Whether that’s thieving someone else’s belongings or having a wee go on a moped, they surely kept his entertained daily.
Anything is fair game for their antics, including when you park up!
It’s important to ensure things are locked away or you might lose it 🐒
Would we recommend Shimla?
Absolutely. Its stunning mountain views, Botanical gardens, the entertaining Ridge and Mall Road, will keep you intrigued.
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