Amritsar – The golden city
When people think of Amritsar, the famous and opulent Golden Temple is the first thing that comes to mind. Indeed, Amritsar is a lively city in Punjab, full of bright colors and deep history.
The famous Golden Temple sits right in the heart of the city within the old city walls. Its bright gold walls shine beautifully over a large, peaceful pool of holy water. Furthermore, visitors can hear calming prayers floating through the air while enjoying a free, delicious hot meal made for thousands of guests every day.
Just a short walk away, the quiet walls of Jallianwala Bagh remind travelers of the city’s brave past.
As night approaches, the energy shifts to the Attari / Wagah Border with Pakistan, where crowds cheer loudly during a thrilling flag ceremony, only 28 kilometres from the city.
There is plenty to do.
Getting to Amritsar
We opted for the same driver we used from Manali to Dharamshala. Since his home was in Dharamshala it made it easier. Although the higher price was surprising, with Dharamshala/Amritsar (207 km) being a shorter journey than Manali / Dharamshala (248km), so we had to do a bit of negotiating. We had actually booked through a tour company from Manali and it suited the driver as it brought him home. However, we reduced the cost from 7000 INR to 6500 INR. The distance was similar but it was time that was much better going to Amritsar, 4.5 hrs compared to 8hrs.
Border crossing
About 40 minutes into the journey, we had to change to a different car and driver due to the original being too tired. He said it was his brother, but we figured it was more to do with bringing the car across the Punjab border. The new car had Punjabi plates.
No scooter was needed for this trip. Furthermore, it came as a relief that roads were calmer, smoother, and no traffic jams, like in Manali, Shimla and Rishikesh. Amistar is certainly a likable city for that reason alone!
Accommodation in Amritsar.
We upped the game and booked to stay in Four Points by Sheraton. Our Marriott Lakeside executive apts in Mumbai, where we have been living for the last several months, had us accumulating points, which gave us 3 complimentary nights in Four Points by Sheraton in Mall Road, Amritsar. Not to shabby indeed!
As now Titanium elite members, we even got an upgrade to a king suite.
The hotel was modern, the room plush and sparkling. We could get used to it.
We had a lovely pool view. The pool was never busy and we had it all to ourselves. Bliss!
Climate
We were very lucky with lovely sunny weather, at 37 degrees. It felt a blessing to feel the sunshine again, compared to the cooler mountain air in Manali, Dharamshala and Shimla.
However the middle afternoon changed in an instant. One moment, we were sunbathing, the next, the wind whipped up and a storm set in, blowing the everything all over the place.
We watched from the window as the poor staff were pushed over by the winds, trying to gather some order. We shouldn’t have laughed.
What to see
Apart from dogs chilling on benches within the old city walls, Amritsar has plenty to offer and keep one occupied.
Golden temple
Of course, when visiting Amritsar, the Golden Temple cannot be missed.
That’s what its known for, and in our opinion you will not be disappointed! We chose to go early.
Many people where sleeping on the marble floor, outside the temple, as we arrived.
Even before sunrise, 5.30am, the temple was already a hive of activity, so going super early is a must to avoid it being overcrowded.
Be prepared for the temple visit.
Its compulsory to cover your head when going into the temple grounds, that includes male and female. Knox made a turban for himself, out of my sarong! While I threw on a silk scarf. Dressing respectfully is also a must.
You also have to remove shoes as a mark of respect. There are staffed shoe lockers where you can leave your shoes for free. They put them in a cubby hole and give you the corresponding numbered token.
Approaching the entrance to the Golden Temple, there are basins for hand washing and you will walk through water pools to cleanse your feet.
Holy Sikh shrine, Amritsar
The Golden Temple (Sri Harmandir Sahib) is the holiest shrine in Sikhism, renowned as a center of spiritually.
The exquisite, gold leaf covered architecture and stunning marble is certainly incredible.
Seeing it in all its golden glory was special and a dream come true.
The complex is built around the Amrit Sarovar pool.
It encourages meditation, with volunteers performing Seva, which translates to selfless service.
There are 4 entrances to the building which invites people from all walks of life.
The temple serves as a symbol of peace and rejects any discrimination.
Free food for all 24 hours a day
And, how wonderful that they have a community kitchen (also known as a Langar) which serves free vegetarian meals to anyone, regardless what faith you have.
Walking through the room were the volunteers chopped onions and garlic, certainly made watery eyes! How they do it all day, we don’t know!
The kitchen runs 24 hours daily by volunteers. Sometimes they can serve up to 10,000 a day/ night.
This number can grow to 20,000 or more at religious holidays!
If you want to show a helping hand, visitors can also get involved, chopping vegetables or washing the huge 200 year old pots.
The tradition was started by Guru Nanak Dev Ji to promote equality and hospitality, offering a welcoming, secure, and protected sanctuary for all. We think its a beautiful idea and many other countries should adopt it!
Security was a novelty to spot, with all their getup, including spears to poke you with, if you linger to long taking photos lol
Jallianwala Bagh
The historic garden, and ‘memorial of national importance’, reserved in the memory of those wounded and killed in the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre that occurred on the site on the festival of Vaisakhi, 13 April 1919.
This is a significant monument to the Indian independence movement.
A peaceful gathering descended into a chaotic bloodbath as more than 2000 people were killed or wounded by soldiers under the command of General Michael O’Dwyer. A disgraceful and barbaric act.
Durgiana Temple
Also known as Lakshmi Narayan Temple. It is of Hindu religion and you will find it in the middle of a sacred lake that people bathe, with a gilded dome & ornate silver gates.
Its a lesser visited replica of the Golden Temple. It is called the Silver temple due to its ornate silver doors.
Durgiana Temple is also a free attraction and well worth going to.
Don’t forget to remove shoes here too. There are cloakrooms inside the grounds. Although, maybe give taking a dip in the pool a miss as it is much more murky than the golden temple.
Feeling like a celeb
Hilarious, since we were the only white folk in town (or it seemed that way lol), we were a novelty for the locals. It doesn’t matter if you’re minding your own business walking down the street, out for sightseeing, shopping or even at the hotel (receptionist asked)!
If one person ask could they have a photo, then we would be bombarded by more!
On some occasions we had to actually do a runner, as the crowds gathered. Lol
Wagah-Attari Border
A 30km drive from the city brings you to the border with Pakistan. Here, you can find a vibrant, passionate, vociferous and energy filled ceremony every evening. The high kicking soldiers would take your head off. Indeed, they are so flexible they could probably take their own head off!
The interesting display attracts lots of visitors just before sunset.
It is a big tick of the bucket list and a priority for anyone to visit while in Amritsar and what a performance it was.
Getting there
We had fired of a couple of WhatsApp messages to get quotes. Best communication and price was from Mega Cabs. Cost was 1500 INR for sedan or 2000 INR for SUV. However, with no Sedan available, they gave us the SUV for 1800 INR. Taking their advice, we got collected at 4pm to arrive there an hour before the ceremony, which started at 6.15 pm. This was later than usual as it was so hot.
The drivers are well used to the spectacle, as they go daily. Therefore, the organised payment was for him to wait the 1 hr 45 minutes approx before taking us back. The show takes only 45 minutes, but its a must to go earlier to get seats.
VIP
It was easier for us as a tourists, as we got VIP seats, right next to the gates, along with diplomats etc.
Just show your passport at security. Security is very strict. No bags allowed.
We only brought cash, passports and phones.
There was an excitement in the air and the crowds gathered to fill the whole stadium, well on the Indian side anyway.
Indians have so much energy, and displayed plenty of fervour, so they were up dancing and singing, waving their Indian flags. It is hugely nationalistic.
How interesting to see that it was mostly women shaking their stuff. Not a hijab in sight. Just a mass of colour and freedom of expression.
It is the only active land crossing between India and Pakistan.
On the Pakistan side, there was a meagre amount of people and it was less colourful. Indeed, their soldiers wore sombre black, not like the bright headdress of the soldiers on the Indian side. Seeing them dressed like that, I (Miko) found myself singing that YMCA song in my head lol.
As dogs lovers, we were also excited to see a stunning German Shepherd and a Labrador strut their stuff at the ceremony with the soldiers.
It was also amusing to see a street dog mummy and her young pups gatecrash the ceremony as it was in full swing. Lol
The end of the ceremony
At the end of the ceremony, both the Indian and Pakistan flags get brought down to the sound of a bugle. Lots of pomp throughout and very choreographed. Brilliant!
Getting out before the mayhem
We were forewarned by our driver, to get out quick just before the flags went down, or else one would be stuck behind a traffic jam of thousands of people. We weren’t the only tourists that were given this advice, as a few Americans made a dash for it too.
Definitely, one of the best experiences of our whole trip. We both loved it, even in the sweltering heat.
Gobindgarh Fort
Spanning an impressive 43 acres along the historic Grand Trunk Road, Gobindgarh Fort is a revered symbol of Punjab’s stronghold and resilience.
Its said to give yourself up to 2 hours to visit.
The Fort was under the Indian Army, but was opened to the public on 10 February 2017.
It also offers light and sound shows, mostly showcasing the life story of Maharaja Ranjita Singh Ji.
We were the only visitors strolling around in the early morning hot sun.
To be honest it was more pleasant as there were no stares, or people asking for photographs lol.
Other than the fort, there are some children’s fairground like games.
A beautiful horse with bright blue eyes, was also in the complex, almost hidden away in a corner, tied to a very short rope.
Being me, (Miko) I went hunting for someone to bring him some water.
A misunderstanding, due to the language barrier, showed within 5 minutes as the owners turned up and started saddling the horse up, thinking we wanted a ride.
After some translation, we got some language, that everyone understands in the ‘universal’ language way, that wasn’t very nice. They were peeved that we didn’t want to spend money and were more concerned about the horse’s welfare. Imagine that, eh!
Moving on!
This fort attraction was less popular than the others and there was an entry fee at 300 rupees each for foreigners and 20 rupees for Indians.
Or, if you wanted to attend the show, add another 450 rupees each.
We only saw several other people entering as we left, so it’s definitely not one of the most busiest sights, but possibly that might be a good thing if you despise large crowds!
Partion museum
The Partition Museum is a public museum located in the town hall.
There the central repository of stories, materials, and documents related to the post-partition riots that followed the division of British India into two independent dominions: India and Pakistan.
Cost: 100 rupees for us foreigners and 10 rupees for Indians.
Hall Bazaar & Katra Jaimal Singh Market
Katra Jaimal Singh Market is classed as Amritsar’s best markets.
Discover a warren of teeming streets packed with retail outlets, restaurants and food stands. You will find traditional clothing, such as colourful saris, Punjab get up, shawls and jewellery.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama and park
We were lucky to have this Park only a 5 minutes stroll across from our hotel.
There was a lovely feel to the park, as well as the history of the park, you had some lovely street dogs who has made it their home. They enjoyed the biscuits we brought.
We weren’t sure if they had names, but we thought the pure silky black one, would like to be called, Silk, it was very apt as she lay in the garden near the beautiful, and huge, Cotton Silk tree.
Walking in the gardens are very pleasant due to the other large trees which shade you with their leaf filled branches.
You also have some swings which we couldnt resist, being kids at heart lol
History
The park is dedicated to Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the first Maharaja of the Sikh Empire. He brought the Punjab together in the early 1800s, in short.
Around the Gandhi statue, who is also remembered here, and the park’s surrounding area, there are many other dogs. Lots of puppies too.
We spotted a kind gentleman drive around in his car, and feed different packs of dogs.
As we walked we also saw little milk cups left for the many puppies around the grassy area. We love to see kindness in the world.
There was such a lovely atmosphere, infact a group of men, kindly invited us to join them for tea as they had their daily group meeting.
Eateries
As in all of the North Indian destinations we had been on this trip, we found it difficult to get pure vegetarian. Yes, there are pure veg restaurants, but for many reviews were low. Our issue was getting chefs to understand that the dishes we requested had to be cooked separately from fish and meat.
Unfortunately, on one occasion before the main meal came, we found, after more questions to a waiter that the starter he was eating was cooked in the same oil/fryer that fish and chicken had been cooked in.
We always praised South India for their knowledge in vegetarianism were they kept dishes separate, so we were surprised in North India that it was a bit lax. Maybe on our short visit we didnt get to find decent vegetarian restaurants. Although, the Thali in Rishikesh was delicious.
So, we ended up eating at the hotel for the 3 nights. The chef did a mean veggie burger from scratch. We also had Chinese food from their menu. And of course, a tasty black lentil dal as well. Delicious. Praise to the chef and his kitchen.
It wasnt all bad staying in, lounging in luxury, with room service lol
Would we recommend Amritsar?
Indeed we would. It’s a great city and not as chaotic as some behemoth Indian cities we’ve been to.
There’s so many charming attractions too. Certainly, the Golden Temple and the Border are the top attractions in the world, and FREE!
We would go back!
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