Mauritius

When people think of Mauritius, they mostly imagine honeymooners and white sandy beaches. There is this, of course, but there is so much more to it, from nature reserves to waterfalls and river gorges.

Flights

Our Air Mauritius flight, MK 53, would depart from Gatwick to Mauritius. From here, we would get a connecting flight straight to Reunion Island.

Our flights cost £2280, London – Mauritius -Reunion – Mauritius – London, including paying for our seats on the two long haul legs. Added to that, return flights Belfast to Gatwick priced in at £206. 

The Ryanair of long haul?

Unfortunately, from the start Air Mauritius was a nightmare. Not surprising since they were the only airline in 2020 that refused to refund, when cancellations were made during the plandemic. It was our credit card company that refunded us the money. 

This time, even though seats were chosen and paid for, the airline decided to move us to different seats and it was too late to change by the time we were ready for online check in. 

After phone calls on the Friday evening and Saturday morning, it became evident they would do nothing to change things. I (Knox) made my way to the terminal as check in opened there on the Saturday afternoon. Still no change. They offered various seats all in the middle of the aircraft. We stuck with what they had given, in our preferred back of the plane area, but encouraged Vel to allow us all our bags on board. They also checked us in without the need to queue. Small positives but a big help.

Car hire

Thankfully, the flight with Air Mauritius was smooth and took off on-time.

Arriving in Mauritius we picked up our transport from Europcar. The car was almost brand new and a contrast from our dirty Reunion motor.

It was a surprise that it was back to left-hand side driving. We attempted to speak French, but we’re talked to in English. There is French speaking here too. It was already plain to see there was a huge Indian influence and even more so by the Hindi temple we passed and the stray dogs.

Getting connected 

Now we weren’t in a European zone like Réunion Island, our phones didn’t have connection. Therefore, before checking into our Airbnb we had to find a SIM card. This proved more difficult, and more costly, than anticipated. 

Tourist prices

Initially, the car hire people said you could pick up in a fuel station. They didn’t have SIM cards there. Luckily, I (Knox) had checked out before we arrived and was able to follow my maps using the GPS location on it. The car was an automatic and that was handy as it was one less thing to take my concentration away. 

At Rose Belle area, I found the Plaisance shopping mall. I then located the Emtel shop quickly. I had expected to get a 5 gig SIM card, that would last 30days, and cost about £4.50. But no, as a non resident, discrimination was the name of the game. What was available was a tourist pack that was 200 gig for £13.50. Not bank breaking but quite a difference. I would need nowhere near that amount of data for the 8 days. 

Shopping challenge 

So, with no other option, I asked for 2 SIM cards. I was then told, and I didn’t quite believe them, that they had no tourist SIM cards in store. Incredulously, I accepted their story and directions to another shop in the mall. The impression I got was that they couldn’t be bothered. Wasn’t worth their while as probably no commission. 

In the telecom shop, I eventually managed to get two, My-T, SIMS. It took an hour and quite a lot of persuasion that my island address was an Airbnb and the confirmation email was mine as it didn’t state my name! Definitely a challenge and not the simplicity of somewhere like Mexico. 

Driving 

The roads were more manic. Definitely no chill out island style here. Attitudes were atrocious. One incident, we were literally half a foot from the white line, waiting at a red traffic light, and one nutter got out of his car and told us to move forward. They were already beeping before that, when ten other cars were before us. 

I noticed a Europcar sticker on the back window, and wondered if it was a dislike for tourists. We surely did stick out like a sore thumb, so we removed the sticker for now.

Police stop

A few days in, in the Grand Baie area we were stopped by police. Another tourist car was already stopped in front of us. I had just turned onto a quiet main road and accelerated to just over 60 KPH, as I didn’t notice a speed limit sign, and the police pulled us over. 

A little something to help me out!

I slowed down easily and pulled in. The officer explained it was a 60 zone and I was doing 74. He asked for my license, and of course it was in my wallet locked up in the room. He advised that it was a 2500 fine for speeding and a further 500 fine for not having my license. 

The officer then checked when we would leave the island, stating, “We will forget about the paper ticket today. However, maybe you can help me out?” 

I knew where this was leading but I asked him to explain. “A little something for me, a gift” he said. I called his bluff and stated that I didn’t think I was going over 60. I asked to see the proof. He stuttered that, because another car had been pulled over after me, and explained that it wasn’t available to show now.

A quick release 

Again, I asked for the proof. We expected this to go on for a bit. However, maybe due to him being worried about trouble for himself due to the bribe question, he said not to worry about it today and to drive carefully. I thanked him for his time and drove away. Corrupt police, who’d would ever have thought it!

Grand Baie

We opted to stay in the Grand Baie area first. We would stay in three different accommodation types in Mauritius to get a flavour for each area.

Mauritius is a big enough island with a population of 1.266 million.

Accommodation 

We would be staying in three different areas in Mauritius.

Our first accommodation was an Airbnb, ensuite, room at a Villa for 3 nights. We drove up to private gates and entering the property we got a good welcome from Benoit the South African owner and his housekeeper Leena. The entrance was very impressive and decorated in exquisite taste, yet some parts a little dated.

Our room was as listed with a wonderful view of the dipping pool area and private beach. PRIVATE BEACH, we must have missed this in the listing!

A huge bonus.

The gardens were well manicured too with the feature being a lovely big cool pool area.

On the private beach you also had a small Hindi temple a few metres ahead. 

 

Mauritius sightseeing – the Grand Baie area.

Prior to leaving, we had excitedly checked out things to see and do. There appeared to be a good variety of activities, spread along the west coast, and this influenced our decision to stay in three separate places. 

Triolet- Hindi temple

The Hindu temple is located in the village of Triolet. The presiding deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. Founded in 1888 by the priest Pandit Sanjbunlall Ramsoondur, the Maheswarnath Temple is the largest in the area and is quite the tourist attraction.

Notre Dam Auxiliatrice

Rumour has it that Notre Dam Auxiliatrice is the most photographed church in Mauritius. 

The picturesque setting drew the tourists in. 

It was certainly in a pretty location, set down by a beautiful beach with white sands and turquoise calm waters.

Inside a man was on bended knee praising the lord, singing hallelujah to the lord. 

The gardens were well manicured with an abundance of flowers. A lovely little palm stood out bearing it’s palm oil fruit.

Suddenly, a little luminous green lizard turned his head to eye ball us. This Mauritius Lowland Forest Gecko was brave, holding it’s ground, as we got closer in for a photo.

Trou-aux-Biches

The public beach, on the north Western coast of the island, is in the district of Pamplemousses.

It was jam packed at the weekend, both with locals and tourists, and we felt lucky to have our private beach all to ourselves.

Weekenders were enjoying the vibe as they danced away to reggae music.

Caudan waterfront, Port Louis

A revamp of the waterfront area of Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius, has brightened up a rugged industrial area. 

Recognisable for it’s streets of coloured umbrellas, you’ll find a variety of shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, craft market and high street stores in the marina’s shopping mall.

Unfortunately, it was a Sunday so most were closed except a handful of restaurant/ cafes looking over the harbour.

The Italian restaurant we were hoping to eat at, L’Artista, was closed also.

So after a couple of refreshments in Sunset cafe we opted for a simple Pizza Hut which eased the hunger. 

Also something not to miss is,  L’Allée des Artistes (The Artists Corner), where artists showcase their talent alongside performers and musicians. We didn’t see any however, maybe Sunday was their day off to.

Eating and drinking 

Eating out in Mauritius, as a vegetarian, proved difficult. It also is hard to find a restaurant of good quality.

We only ate out twice, in the Grand Baie / North west area, which was pizza both times. Shocking, we know!

la Cigale restaurant

On a Friday night, after visiting another restaurant, La Cigale. We were the only customers at this ‘Italian’ restaurant. Service was good, however pizza was mediocre and that was the only thing they were serving!

Pizza Hut

We drove all the way to Caudan Waterfront for the L’Artista Italian restaurant only to find it shut on a Sunday! So the only place open half way decent was Pizza Hut.

Not fine dining but eased the hunger. A little cheeky bird also joined us for dinner.

Sunset bar/restaurant

Caudan Waterfront- A place to watch the world go by while sipping on a refreshment. Food didn’t get good reviews so we give it a miss.

Le Fournil Boulangerie

Le Fournil was our go to place for our breakfast needs. Tasty croissants; not quite as good as Reunion, fresh baguettes and other breads, quiches and much more. Well worth the visit. 

The Beach house 

Funnily enough, a beach house bar / restaurant https://www.thebeachhouse.mu/by the beach in Grand Baie. Busy with live music and sports and serves plenty of drinks. A good bit of Craic watching the Liverpool game and chatting to strangers.

Fresh Fruit and veg shop

To fill our fresh bread in the morning, we picked up some supplies at one of the various fruit and veg stalls in Grand Baie. They weren’t as prevalent as in Reunion but certainly plenty of choice in this one. Very Much Indian style.

Flic en Flac area

The Flic en Flac area sits on the west coast of Mauritius, south of Grand Baie by 35 mins or so.

It is a sleepy beach side village that is a woken up by tourism. 

Flic en Flac accommodation

As it was birthday celebrations, we decided to stay in a hotel for a couple of nights in the Flic n Flac area. We choose Seastar Hotel.

On arrival we were greeted with a colourful mocktail and friendly smiles.

The room was decorated in a beachy vibe and spotless.

Downstairs you had a small pool with loungers, and upstairs, there was a seating area with sunbeds, bar and  jacuzzi.

The bar, on the rooftop, only opened at 6pm so this was a great area for a quiet sunbathe. 

Flic n Flac beach

The total length of Flic-en-Flac is 6 km. For the moment, this is one of the longest beaches in Mauritius. A seaside town with various eateries, bars and shops.

There’s really not much to do in Flic en Flac rather than laze by the pool or on the beach.

Eating and drinking 

We had found a number of options, or so we thought, to eat in Flic en Flac. Unfortunately, the Indian restaurants we wanted to eat in were closed on a Monday. Thwarted again.  

Something to note is that some restaurants don’t serve alcohol. This is due to either being Muslim owned or not having a licence. There is a bring your own option for some. 

Miko’s Birthday celebrations 

Indeed, there was very little open on a Monday so my (Miko’s) Birthday celebrations were a more relaxed affair. We cracked open a bottle of Moët and clinked glasses on the rooftop.

With our idea of an Indian foiled, and vegetarian options extremely limited, we fell back on an old favourite, Pizza! 

A stroll and a drink in the brash Mafiozzo bar rounded off the evening. 

 

Pizzart restaurant and takeaway–

Very delicious pizza and caprese salad. Welcoming staff.

No alcohol served as no licence but we were allowed to bring our own. Highly recommended.

 

Basilico Pizzeria

Another good pizza joint, Basilico, owned by an Italian from Genova. The pizza base was excellent. There was a different taste than the usual pizza, almost like a buttery flavour. We opted for takeaway, although there is a few seats outside.

Kenzi Bar

A bit of life started to filter back into Flic en Flac on the Tuesday. It had been a washout day with the weather so it was nice to chill here for a few after dinner.

Good vibe, decent prices, friendly staff, and next door to our hotel.

Mosaic bar / restaurant

We’d been out for a walk along the beach when the rain came. Dived into this place for a bit of shelter. Reasonably priced bar but a bit nondescript.

Sightseeing around Flic en Flac, Mauritius. 

Well, we had plans and the weather etc had other plans. We only had 2 days here and we got to the beach on the first day. The second day, a Tuesday, was a wash out. 

Eureka le Maison Creole- 

On the way from Grand Baie, we planned to call into here and Moka city. The drive through the mountain scenery was lovely.

Well, what can we say? We drove all the way, on time constraints, only to be told we couldn’t even take a photo unless we purchase their full package tour, including waterfall. As it was my birthday (Miko) I wasn’t exactly dressed for a hike! 

The rude woman wasn’t for budging. On first impression anyway the house looked rundown, not really worth the trip and especially not to pay for the privilege.

Moka City

We passed through here as it was beside the Eureka house. It appears that this, heavily in construction, small town is designated a “Smart City”. Shiny buildings being erected for finance companies like PWC, Standard Chartered, and other multi national companies want to power a world with gleaming, Disney like, picture book life of falsehoods.

We visited the soulless, empty, shopping mall with designer shops and a clean supermarket that had big, bulging, bug eye CCTV on each till. We got out of there quickly. 

Le Mourne and the Black River area

Winding roads, forest and mountains took us away from the dusty towns and villages of the coast as we took a detour, to Bois Cheri, on our way to our La Morne abode. 

Bois Cheri Tea Plantation, South Mauritius

Before heading actually into the Le Mourne vicinity, as green tea lovers,  we just had to call into Bois Cheri.  We rang beforehand, and the friendly lady, Sharon on the phone recognised the accent, which started a conversation how her sister lived in Belfast!  The 250-hectare tea factory and museum is located about 12km north of Rivière des Anguilles.

You can smell the aroma in the air as you drive up to this picture perfect place. Bois Chéri was the first tea plantation in Mauritius and dates back to 1892.

You can take the one hour tour of the factory, with tea tasting up at the restaurant. 

And a dander around the tea museum.

Shop till your hearts content at the tea shop beside the factory. Sharon give us a great welcome when she asked, “where are you from?” We had a feeling she was asking that question all morning. Her eyes lit up when she finally heard, Belfast! Lol 

You can also browse many of the speciality teas on offer in the restaurant to, or simply sit and admire the vistas with a cuppa. 

There’s plenty of delicious tea flavours to choose from.

Maa Durga Statue and temple

Unexpectedly, we came across this Indian holy site in Mauritius. Driving through the Grand Bassin area, it’s Impossible to miss this as the statues are huge, imposing and impressive. 

There is also a holy lake, where devotees give offerings to and where monkeys get a free meal. 

 

Le Morne accommodation

Online the Airbnb looked simple, fresh and modern. Unfortunately when we checked ourselves in we couldn’t help but show disappointment.

It was nothing like the pictures on the Airbnb profile. Dark, definitely not the sunny vibe they like to boast about. It stank of stale sweat and was musty. The bedding was stained. There was no top sheet only an old throw fit for the bin.  Quite a contrast from our lovely breezy stay at Seastar just before.

Don’t Panic

The weirdest point was the big red Panic Button! We have been all around the world in places notorious for crime, but this was the first time we’d come across a big red button!

We decided we didn’t want to stay, but unfortunately after looking for almost 2 hours online, all other decent hotels were booked up. There was no choice but to make the most of it. As we’d no top sheet or duvet we slept with our sarongs over us.

The owner engaged when we pointed out the issues but didn’t make an effort to fix them. She refused several times to offer a top sheet, but the next morning the maid brought one and it was still wet!

Animals save the day

The only saving grace was Hava the cat and 3 friendly stray dogs outside the locked gate, who said hello daily. 

Oh, and not forgetting the laundry facilities.

It was a sad state of affairs when we found the older dog looking very bloody, with a swollen eye, and feeling sorry for himself as he took refuge in a drain.

We coaxed him out after bathing the wound giving a bit of dog food. The other dogs enjoyed some food too!

Sightseeing

There are a variety of activities, including chilling on white sands under the trees, to pass the time. Of course, there are more energetic things to do but can be very weather dependant. 

Maconde point 

The viewpoint is thought to provide unparalleled views over the turquoise waters of the southwest coast and Le Morne Brabant. Located in the village of Baie du Cap, along a hairpin bend.

Unfortunately for us, at our second attempt we were prevented by police to get past due to road works. If you’re luckier than us and get to visit, you climb some narrow steep steps for about a minute to reach the top. It’s a quick sightseeing activity, which would be no more than 5 minutes.

Le Morne Brabant 

A peninsula at the extreme southwestern tip of the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius on the windward side of the island. It is highlighted by an eponymous basaltic monolith with a summit 556 metres above sea level. 

The mountain dominates the island and it’s the most favourite tourist activity. 

There’s a lot of confusion on whether one needs a guide or not to reach the summit. The few days rain made the ground slippery and wet preventing the climb all the way to the top. 

Seaplane

For the adventurous spirit in you, why not get aboard a seaplane?

They are located on part of Le Prairie beach which is a charming  picturesque setting. 

The sea plane will offer you stunning views of the turquoise lagoon.

The sandy beach coastline and the picturesque tropical landscapes. It isn’t cheap though, at £200 per person for 30 minutes or £130 per person for 15 minutes (only one person per aircraft).

Le Prairie beach 

We really found a lovely little spot at Prairie beach where we felt content. 

There was also a couple of friendly dogs on site, who loved to lay sunbathing with us or getting into the sea for a paddle. We loved frolicking around with them. 

The dog treats maybe had something to do with it!

Dogs really make the world go round! Go say hi!

Le Mourne public beach 

A very busy narrow stretch of white sands and turquoise waters.

Go early if you want a quiet spot. Some people also sit on the grassy area for picnics. A bonus is that there is free parking.

The Seven Coloured Earths

Seemly a geological formation  found in the Chamarel plain of the Rivière Noire District in south-western Mauritius. We were excited to see this ‘wonder of the world’. If you go by Instagram photos, you will expect to see a sand dune rainbow!

However we were disappointed. In reality it’s a tiny mound coloured with several different shades of brown and dull red. Sadly and infuriating it also had a turtle farm in the park, stuck in a tiny enclosure without water.

If you still decide to go see it. Please keep in mind it is ‘protected sands’ so has to be viewed from an outpost. It costs approximately £10 each adult. The park takes 15 minutes to walk around, the dune is tiny. Your ticket doesn’t include the other part of the park. Address: 7 Colored Earth Road, Chamarel

Chamarel Waterfalls 

The waterfall is also located in Geo Park where 7 coloured Earth resides. This also has to be viewed from a deck quite a distance away. Again, the weather was against us as downpours and all day rains left a too treacherous trek in the area. 

Île aux Cerfs

A privately owned island near the east coast of Mauritius in the Flacq District. The island of Ile aux Cerfs lies off Trou d’Eau Douce in the largest lagoon of Mauritius and offers 87 hectares of luxuriant vegetation and preserved, white, sandy beaches.

You can only access the island by boat which costs around 60 euro. Take a dip in the sea and relax.

Though it can get a bit hectic with tourists especially if boats are going over at the same hour.

Diving/ snorkeling 

Mauritius is blessed with colourful marine life. Time restrictions meant we couldn’t do a diving course, which are many on the island available. There is also the easiest option of snorkeling, which you can either hire or buy at the store. Sometimes if you’re lucky you can see the fishies or sea creatures without a snorkel. There are many coloured variety found in the tropical sea, which almost hide in plain sight. 

You have the bright green leaf like creatures

Or, the Nudibranch, the sea slug which was white with red spots and looked almost see through. They can come in different shades and usually wiggle amongst the grassy bottom.

Another fish was a sand colour, which blended in below, that scooted along the sandy bottom. 

Also we can’t forget the sea cucumbers, reminding us of the Cook Islands. They look like lumps of turd and if you happen to stand on one it would probably be as squishy!

The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden

Commonly known as the Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, near Port Louis. We were expecting to see the ponds kitted out with huge lily pads. However, it was sad to see most were weeds and left to die. Rubbish everywhere, completely neglected. Deer and tortoise were in small enclosures to our dismay. There was no need. They could have been left to roam free. We always avoid zoos and this was no different. Makes our blood boil so we left quick smart. Not recommended.

Humpback whales west coast

We just missed it! Something we really wanted to do! The best time to go whale watching in Mauritius is from July to October/ early November, when the humpback whales are migrating from the Antarctic to warmer waters. During this time, you are most likely to see humpback whales, as well as other types of whales such as sperm whales and pilot whales. Next time!

Eating and drinking 

As we had cooking facilities. We ate in most nights, except one evening where we ventured out to try Nomad Restaurant and we were really glad we did.

It was sure a treat to eat out for a change, and was worth the 15 minute drive in the lashing downpour. 

The best vegetarian food of the Mauritius trip

It was the best food we’d tried in Mauritius and goes to the top 10 in what we’ve ate in all around the world.

We even went the next day for breakfast, and yes, that too was outstanding!

The well maintained dining area, basked in the morning sun, was relaxed with a few dog customers which added to the atmosphere.

Staff were also super friendly. Special mention to Jeff and  Jeanita.

Go try it for yourselves.

Cooking for ourselves 

When not venturing out, head to Super U supermarket for all the goodies you’ll need to whip up a home cooked meal.

Super U is also part of a Coeur mall in Tamarin, with stores such as the Body Shop, clothes stores and a food court.

Fresh veggies 

We also got most of our fresh vegetables at a roadside stall. 

Weather 

The lush greenery is akin to Ireland due to the regular down pours. Some maybe sharp and quick but it can rain all day too. Don’t expect constant sunshine in Mauritius. If you do then you’re very lucky!

Our departure 

We drive in the torrential rain on the winding roads back to the airport. At the Europcar hire, a staff member, driving another hire car bumped into ours. Luckily we had already got signed off that everything was good with ours!

Hats off

‘Where’s your hat Miko’, Knox enquired. 

‘Sh*t!’

I’d left it in the back if the hire car. 

I (Knox) dashed to retrieve it. This ended up in a curious display. At the counter, I explained that the hat was left in the car. The guy came out to walk with me to the car. Strangely, I noticed he was hiding the hat up his jumper. I said nothing but let him continue the charade. 

At the car, he proceeded to open the back door and pretend that the hat was found. I’ll leave it for you to decide why he played the game. Some sort of guilt must have played a part.

Security 

At security, we had our e boarding pass at the ready only to be told we needed our paper tickets printed. This was never mentioned on Air Mauritius website. No surprise there. 

We looked at the horrendous queues, where they directed us to go. We had no bags to check in, why should we stand there, we cried!

Cheekily bumping into the premium class queue,  we called another attendant over. Luckily he was on the ball and brought us forward so they could print our boarding passes!

Would we recommend Mauritius?

We will always say see it with your own eyes, so absolutely go and see for yourself. 

Would we go back? Probably not. It’s one of those countries for us, that once you’ve done it, there’s no rush back. 

We had positive and not so positive times. Met friendly people and not so friendly people. The weather was a bit of a downer too. 

Mostly our original itinerary got thwarted for one reason or another – because of the mistreatment of animals at certain sights, or sights unusable due to the rain. Our enthusiasm for Mauritius waned a little. Compared to Reunion Island where we were rarely bored and ready to go! Sometimes though it couldn’t be helped and you just have to go with the flow. 

Is there too much hype about Mauritius? Reality Vs Instagram? Is reality the same as in the glossy brochures? Well we give you our opinion. Now it’s up to you to see for yourself.

If you liked reading you can check out the other part of this trip in Reunion Island